Obituary for Subtlety
SUBTLETY
B. Precambiean Era - D. Post Dot.Com Bust
Survived by a loyal band of disparate adherents
Subtlety passed away recently.
Nobody is really sure when it happened,
authorities who were contacted for comment have not yet replied.
The only thing that is certain is that subtlety has died.
I started to notice that subtlety was ill,
possibly terminally, over the past several years.
When I saw Jim Carey light up a fart in "Dumb and Dumber"
in the party scene fantastic and proud in its blunder
I realized that subtlety was stooped and encumbered
a narrow span of attention plagues our society but still...
And the teaser trailer for "Dumb and Dumberer"proved that it was true,
Subtlety had become grist for the mill.
Cannon-Fodder, roadkill, collateral damage, un objecto anonadamiento
at the intersection of Materialism Street and La Avenida de Credito Ilimitado
Scratch That Itch and Feed that Jones,
if you have a problem, blame your broken home
blow that donkey and ride that horn,
don't come to terms with the inconceivable, smother it with scorn
bang your thing and shake that gong,
the music ain't about a message, the dance is about a song
shake your saber and rattle your bones,
the slot machines at the indian casino play the secret, sacred tones
Never suffer discomfort lest it be else's fault
read the rags at the check-out stand for the names to exalt
and if it ever be demanded that you should utter some truth,
seek out the Civil Criminal, establish the burdern of proof
Gene Wilder said it well, modern comedy is all about the punchline
It's all about the moneyshot, the french tipped nail, the suggestive tanline
shows on OLN, HGN, Food Network, ESPN are shot just like Andrew Blake,
surprise, sincerity, and excitement all are eager to fake.
Don't say anything bright lest ye be tarred and feathered as a know-it-all
The Farrelly Brothers, Rush Limbaugh, Al Franken, Puff Daddy, and Bill O'Reilly should bear the Pall
But there will be neither funeral nor memorial service, nor graveside repose
Subltety has perished, slowly, silently, anonymous; unnoticed by all of those
who were fleeing from reality lest their glass houses be rent assunder
in the face of the product divine staring slack-jawed in wonder.
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East Bay Chefs Talk About Sourcing
This article is scheduled to appear in the January issue of "Edible East Bay Magazine."
When it comes time to order essential products at the average, conventional, mainstream restaurant, the chef or the manager generally turns to one of the industry’s large food service distributors to fulfill all of his restaurant’s needs. Companies like Aramark, US Foods, and Sysco have built their respective empires by delivering a wide range of products that meet as many of their customer’s needs as possible. Thus, the chef in question could call Sysco and procure nearly everything that he requires, from frying pans to canned goods, from and aprons to produce, from mops to meats, from urinal cakes to frozen tiramisu, from tableware to oils, vinegars, and sauces. Not only is this service convenient, these products are also competitively priced.
This scenario, where a firm’s needs are met with a great deal of convenience and at an acceptable price, is a businessperson’s dream. However, this dream comes with its own share of consequences. The streamlining of the food service distribution industry has come largely at the expense of flavor and freshness. Sure, the chef can get the food quickly and easily, but the ingredients are both lifeless and soulless.
Through this system, chefs in Portland, Maine can access the same food as chefs in Portland, Oregon. Since the machine is built for long-range distribution, the products that propel it must be able to retain their shape and attributes while moving through various modes of transportation. As a result, the machine doesn’t deal with delicate varieties of produce or sensitive types of cheese or herbs.
Thus, despite the fact that the United States has a great deal of both ethnic and agricultural diversity, its cuisine has become highly homogenous. Restaurants in far-flung locales like Key West, Florida and Seattle, Washington can feature identical menus, often using the same ingredients, or even serve the same pre-cooked meals.
Here in the Bay Area, there is a much different tradition of sourcing at play. Stop into the kitchen at Chez Panisse, Café Fanny, Picante, or Pizzeria Gioia in North Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto to see a series of chefs who source their products according to a much different set of criteria. One of the golden means of this philosophy, which has its roots at Chez Panisse, is to buy flavorful food as close to one’s restaurant as possible.
On Hopkins Street, one block up the hill from Monterey Market, you can find pizza by the slice at Pizzeria Gioia. I first ate at Pizzeria Gioia shortly after it opened in 2004. Chef Will Gioia crafts his pizza from high quality, local products. I must admit that I was disarmed by the quality of his pizza because I had a bias against by-the-slice pizza for some reason. However, my first slice from Gioia’s was outrageously delicious and, many return trips later, I have yet to be disappointed.
Gioia and I were recently standing on the sidewalk in front of the Pizzeria discussing the chef’s sourcing strategies when we were politely interrupted by an approaching stranger. “Mr. Paparazzi,” the stranger intoned, “if you are writing a story about Will, please don’t forget to mention me: I hold the record for the most reuses of a pizza box at Pizzeria Gioia.” The stranger was Paul Goettlich, a New York native and longtime Berkeley resident, and an unabashed pizza purist, who has used the same pizza box to bring home 32 of Gioia’s cheese pies.
Goettlich is the living embodiment of both New York City and Berkeley. He is both an environmental activist and a pizza fanatic. He is not afraid to share his opinions, which are often firmly held. “Will’s pies are the best west of New York City because he only uses the best ingredients.” The message was as poignant as it was well timed. Good pizza is, at its heart exceedingly simple. Gioia’s pizza reflects many of the tenants of the progressive food movement in the East Bay: buy quality ingredients, strive to find the best flavors possible, buy local as much as possible, and strive to form productive, symbiotic, long-term relationships with your suppliers.
“As a working chef,” Gioia states, “it all comes down to quality, flavor, and the integrity and the sustainability of my source. I get the best product that I can afford from the best people I can find. I use Giusto organic flour from South San Francisco, and Fatted Calf meats from Berkeley wherever possible. In terms of my cheeses, I buy Grande mozzarella and ricotta from Wisconsin because it is the best quality product that I can get. It is twice the price of traditional pizza cheese but it is easily four times better.” Gioia sells his slices for between $2.50 and $3.00, a reasonable price indeed for pizza of this quality. He is somewhat constrained by his prices, however. “I have to use a higher-end, industrial pepperoni that I get from Los Angeles,” Gioia explains, “I would love to be able to buy an artisan one, but I would have to charge $5 a slice for that and that just won’t work.”
At Café Fanny, Chef Kara Dombrofsky, the General Manager, counts herself fortunate to have access to the freshest local products imaginable.
Café Fanny offers breakfast and lunch and is situated between Acme Bread Company and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant on San Pablo Avenue, in Berkeley. The most common ingredient on the menu, the bread, comes from Acme while the wines come from Kermit Lynch. Most of the other ingredients used at Café Fanny come from a network of local farmers or from the local farmer’s markets.
“Our primary focus is on sourcing the freshest, best tasting ingredients from the best local farmers that we can find,” Dombrofsky explains. “As the organic movement has become increasingly corporate, we have increased our focus on sourcing locally as much as possible because we know what we are getting and we know who is growing it.” However, the menu requires some ingredients that may be out of season locally. “We have to maintain the signature items on our menu,” explains James Maser, one of Café Fanny’s owners, “so we have suppliers who can get us our staple ingredients year-round.” Maser’s primary focus these days when it comes to sourcing ingredients is on finding the best possible flavors. “It really doesn’t matter how the produce was grown or how the ingredient was produced if it doesn’t taste good,” he explains, “our customers want to eat food that tastes great.”
This philosophy resonates strongly throughout Maser’s other restaurant, Picante Cocina Mexicana, a culinary gem located on 6th Street near Gilman Street. Essentially, Maser needs certain flavors to remain true to his vision for Picante; a celebration of real Mexican cuisine. I spent the past five years working on a farm in Tehama County where I was exposed to authentic Mexican food, subsisting primarily on tortilla-based meals. To me the tortilla is everything in Mexican cuisine and the thing that really floored me at Picante was the excellence of their handmade tortillas. Usually, corn tortillas have a mealy texture and are somewhat tough. Picante’s, however, are supple and smooth.
I mentioned this to Maser and he explained that the variety of corn used in the tortilla is integral to its flavor and quality. “That may sound obvious,” he stated, “but most industrial tortillas in this country are made using the wrong varieties of corn. We have our corn grown in New Mexico because we can’t get the varieties we want any closer to home. A few other key ingredients come from Mexico, like hot chocolate, chiles, spices and herbs, but most everything else is sourced locally.”
The local sourcing movement is generally credited to Chez Panisse, the pantheon of California cuisine located on Shattuck Avenue between Cedar and Vine Streets. Thus, one would expect that 30 years of practice might have removed all of the obstacles from the process. However, Cal Peternell, chef at the Chez Panisse Café, explains that there are inherent challenges to this method. However, it is not without its difficulties. “There is a reason why most restaurants buy from the big distributors,” he explains, “ordering from individual farmers takes a great deal of time. I spend one day a week ordering and talking to farmers, but it is one of the best parts of my job.”
One of the most logistically challenging products for Peternell to source these days is meat. “We only buy grass-fed and we prefer to buy organic. We used to buy all of our meat from the Niman Ranch but we like to buy directly from the farmer as much as possible and their current model precludes us from doing that. These days we have to buy our beef by the half cow, butchering it ourselves. The biggest challenge that this poses is finding a use for all of the lesser cuts since cows are not made entirely of prime cuts.”
Thus, after building his menus in order to use as much of the cow as possible, Peternell distributes the lesser cuts, usually in ground form, to other restaurants in the local area. “During baseball season, we can usually sell a good deal of the ground beef to Traci Des Jardines at the Acme Chophouse at Pac Bell Park. If there is any meat left over, our chefs usually buy it to use at home; everybody loves a good, clean burger.” Despite the occasional inconvenience posed by sourcing directly from local farmers, Peternell is adamant that Chez Panisse’s sourcing philosophy makes all the difference for both the chefs and the customers. “We love the fact that we get to create all of our cuisine from these incredibly fresh, local ingredients,” he exclaims, “that makes our jobs some much more fulfilling then if we were working with institutional product.”
For all of the chefs that I interviewed, locally sourced food allows them to exhibit flavors and textures that their customers may never before have experienced. This act of discovery is not only a formative experience for the customer, it is also an enriching one for the chef. Although there has been an explosion of franchise restaurants in the past two decades, there has also been a strong reaction to the homogenized food that chain restaurants offer by both customers and chefs. Increasing numbers of chefs want to exhibit the unique flavors of local and seasonal cuisine and an increasing number of Americans are being turned on to flavor by chefs who have taken the time to build relationships with local farmers. The future for these farmer-chef collaborations is bright and will serve as a beacon to those who have yet to experience true flavor.
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Will Gioia - Quality Pizza By-The-Slice/From The Farm
The American pizza industry is enormous. Pizza accounts for 10% of all foodservice sales, for a total of $32 Billion. Each man woman and child eats an average of 46 slices of pizza per year. What is even more staggering is that a growing percentage of the pizza in the United States is industrially produced and highly mediocre.
Industrial pizza is made with frozen dough, thick layers of mealy, greasy cheese, cardboard mushrooms, rubbery olives, mystery-meat sausage pellets, greasy neon pepperoni, and ham that more closely resembles plastic than it does pork. What does pizza have to do with agriculture? Well, in the San Francisco Bay Area, as well as in many other cities across America, pizza is being crafted from high-quality ingredients sourced directly from farmers. One of my favorite pizzerias in the Bay Area, Gioia Pizzeria, specializes in pizza-by-the-slice, the segment of the pizza market least friendly to gourmet leanings.
Will Gioia, the owner and chef, of Pizzeria Gioia grew up in Brooklyn, New York and worked as a chef in France before working at several of the top restaurants in the Bay Area including Zuni Café, in San Francisco, and Olivetto, in Oakland, before opening the pizzeria. His goal was to create great pizza with the best ingredients for an affordable price.
At its heart, pizza is a food of few ingredients; dough, sauce, and toppings. Gioia’s ingredients have a well-defined hierarchy of attributes, quality, flavor, and the integrity and the sustainability of the source being the most important. “I get the best product that I can afford from the best people I can find. I make my dough using Giusto organic flour from South San Francisco and Stanislaus tomato puree is my sauce base because they are both outstanding products. The cheeses I buy are made by Grande, a mid-sized company from Wisconsin, and they come to me through a distributor; they are at least twice the price of industrial pizza cheeses but they are easily four times better. My meats come from an artisan producer here in the Bay Area. I buy locally when I can and I only buy from people with whom I want to have a relationship. We have to like each other and we have to respect each other because life is just too short to do it any other way.”
Despite the fact that he buys the best ingredients he can afford while only selling his slices for between $2.50 and $3.00, Gioia Pizzeria turned a profit after only seven months. “I think that the quality of our ingredients and our finished product makes people come back,” Gioia explains. Here is a sobering thought: if ten percent of pizza restaurants in the country would use Will Gioia’s philosophy to source their products, the pizza industry could contribute $3.2 billion dollars to the economies of both domestic agriculture and artisan foods. The market potential for farmer-chef collaborations is evident and the time is right for making the connections required to begin these collaborations.
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Farm-To-Fork With Jorgensen Apiaries
This is part of a series of briefs that I wrote documenting Bon Appétit Management Company's Farm-To-Fork program.
Jorgensen Apiaries - Bon Appétit Farm Brief
Walter Jorgensen, of Oberlin, Ohio, has always been interested in bees. His grandfather had a farm and Walter grew up around both bees and honey but various events and realities kept him from pursuing a career in beekeeping. One day in 1998, Walter and his wife Linda were walking through the bee pavilion at the Lorraine County fair when Walter expressed his interest in bees. To his surprise, Linda stated that shared his interest and that she thought that they should try their hand at beekeeping.
At that time, Walter was employed full-time as a molder in a steel foundry and he and Linda decided that they would try to keep a few hives as a hobby. They worked their hives for a few years, slowly increasing both their strength and their number. They began by giving their honey away to friends and family as gifts. When their hives started producing more honey than they could give away, Walter and Linda opened a stall at a few local farmers’ markets.
In the fall of 2000, Walter received a call from Gina Fusco, Director of Retail Foodservice for Bon Appétit at Oberlin College. Bon Appétit had just taken over the food service contract at Oberlin were attempting to source as many local products as possible through Farm-To-Fork. “The previous foodservice company had been prodded by the students into bringing in some local products,” Walter explains, “but Bon Appétit was really serious about sourcing locally; I was really amazed.“
Walter and Linda still considered themselves bee hobbyists at this time. “I was working on a business plan to grow and sell mushrooms,” Walter states, “but the call from Bon Appétit made me realize that I might be able to make a business out of our bee project if I were to apply myself to it. I started thinking about how much honey I was selling at the farmer’s market and I was stunned. I realized that if I was to really educate both the public and myself about the benefits of eating local honey, I could really push my hobby over the top.”
The first meeting with Bon Appétit went very well. “We weren’t really sure what to do with Walter’s honey,” says Fusco, “but I knew we could find a place for it. After asking around a bit, we decided that we could sell it in the on-campus convenience store.” The propagation of Walter’s honey throughout Oberlin College closely resembles the manner in which bees spread pollen. “I got a call from Gina,” Walter explains “and he/she told me that the students wanted to use the honey in their tea at the cafes. Then she called about a week later telling me that some of the chefs had found the honey and they wanted to use it in both as a condiment in the dining halls and as an ingredient in the kitchen. Within a few months, it was being used in nearly all of the dining halls and cooperatives on campus.”
In the winter of 2001, Walter lost his job at the foundry. Rather than despair over the fact that his career of over thirty years had just evaporated, Walter rejoiced that he was now a full-time beekeeper. He quickly found that the demand for his honey out stripped his production. “Linda and I had joined the Lorraine County Beekeepers Association when we first got started in 1998,” he says, “so we started sourcing the honey that we use for our flavored products and our honey butter from a few of the other small local producers.”
Over the following four years Walter and Linda increased their number of hives to forty, working diligently to produce as many varieties of honey as possible. “Depending on the nature of the weather,” he explains, “we can get Linden or Basswood Honey, Black Locust Honey, and a wide variety of Wildflower Honey. Not only are these varieties delicious, but they are a great way to build immunity to pollens.” Walter and Linda also recently opened their own store front where they sell their entire product line, which has been expanded to include jams and relishes as well as a full line of honey and beeswax products.
“We never would have considered becoming full-time beekeepers if we hadn’t been contacted by Bon Appétit, “Walter states, “it is amazing to me how serious they are about supporting local farmers. This year, 40% of our business will come from Bon Appétit; they have really pushed us over the top. I was fed up with being an employee, but it took me losing my job to get really serious about the bees. Now, I have a great business that supports not only my family but also the other small producers I work with. Linda and I are both very proud to be full-time apiasts and Bon Appétit farmers.”
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Farm-To-Fork With Brian's Organic Farm
This Article is part of a series of brief that I wrote documenting Bon Appétit Management Company's Farm-to-Fork program.
Grant Brians - Bon Appétit Farm Brief
Agriculture has always been a passion for Grant Brians, who began farming in 1974, one year after his family relocated to Hollister, Ca. At 14 years of age, he started a business growing onions and celery for seed. He was the youngest commercial grower in the Hollister area and he inspired many of the young men and women in his high school’s FFA chapter to try their hand at commercial farming as well.
Brians was well ahead of the organic boom that began sweeping agriculture in the 1990s and his was one of the first farms to be certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers. Being ahead of the curve meant that Brians had to develop his own markets and the downturn in agriculture in the 1980s made it almost impossible for him to sell his organic row crops at a competitive price through bulk distribution. He refocused his energies, spending most of his time working as an engineer, while continuing to farm on the side.
After more than 20 years of employment in the world of high technology, Brians found himself without a job in the fall of 2003. Shortly thereafter, Brians received a call from Brian Gardiner of America Fresh, an internet-based, organic produce distribution company located in the San Francisco Bay Area. One of Gardiner’s best growers had just retired and Gardiner had to find someone to take his place in order to supply his customers with the rare, organic, heirloom varieties of squash, potatoes, and beans around which they had built much of their cuisine.
“These Bon Appétit chefs really know their produce,” Gardiner explains, “and we had developed an enormous amount of business with them through the Farm-To-Fork program.” Gardiner knew that Brians was exactly the kind of farmer who could fill the void for him. “Because of the scale and nature of our relationship with Bon Appétit,” Gardiner states, “I was able to guarantee Grant a large volume of business with a customer who would pay promptly and would respect both him and his produce.” Within a few weeks, Brians was back in the fields pursuing his passion.
Brians’ fields are producing a staggering array of exotic varieties of produce. Many of these varieties have been phased out of the mainstream produce market because they are frequently non-uniform in both size and color and they are usually suited for specific culinary applications. The twenty-five varieties of potatoes that he grows represent the width and breadth of the potato family with its many textures, colors, and flavors. With names like Yukon Gold, Detroit Red, German Butterball, Kerr’s Pink, and River John Blue, these potatoes are more like characters in a novel than they are a simple starch. The six varieties of squash that he grows, White Scallop, Benning’s Green Tint, Costata Romanesco, Lemon Squash, Golden Squash, and Patisson Marbre, each come with their own unique temperament and their own handling requirements. His many varieties of beans like, Heirloom Yellow Wax, Beurre de Bettencort, and Maxibel, can be paired with a variety of fish, meats, and other vegetables to create landscapes of taste and texture.
Because of the nuanced nature of these heirloom varieties, they appeal to only the most discriminating and adventurous of chefs. “The Bon Appétit chefs are operating on such a high-level,” Gardiner explains, “they demand these varieties because of the broad range of flavor, color and texture that they afford. It is amazing the quality of food that these chefs produce. You can get better meals at your local Bon Appétit account than you can get at most high-end restaurants. We provide them with these fresh, flavorful and nutritious varieties that nobody else grows and in turn they create this amazing cuisine.”
For Grant Brians, growing organic heirloom produce for world-class chefs has been a great experience. His involvement in the Farm-To-Fork program has allowed him to survive financially as he refocused his energies on agriculture. In many ways, heirloom varieties, organic farming, and Bon Appétit‘s commitment to sustainability dovetail into one of his guiding philosophies; that there is a great deal to learn from both the past and the path less traveled. “You need to look forward and back all the time,” he explains, “It is important to make sure that you are not missing things that people knew before and that you don’t forget what your vision for the future is.” For Brians, the Farm-To-Fork program has allowed him to continue the work that had been done in the past in order to build his future. “Having many years of experience as both an organic farmer and as a consumer enjoying excellent taste,” he states, “I welcomed the opportunity in 2005 to provide these crops to Bon Appétit. I look forward to continuing the relationship and expect many years of continued agricultural production. I will continue my life-long commitment to organic farming because of the benefits it affords both to the planet and to the soil that I so deeply care about.”
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Farm-To-Fork With Inland Orange Conservancy
This is part of a series of of briefs that I wrote documenting Bon Appétit Management Company's Farm-To-Fork program.
Inland Orange Conservancy - Bon Appétit Farm Brief
In the spring of 2004, orange prices hit an historic high. However, Bob Knight of the Sunnyheights Ranch of Redlands, Ca., realized that the high prices would do little to help Inland Empire orange growers who were going out of business in record numbers. Long considered the “Napa Valley” of the orange industry, the Inland Empire of California, comprised of Riverside, Imperial, and San Bernardino counties, boasts a mix of orange varieties, excellent soils, and optimal climactic conditions that make it perhaps the finest region in the world for growing ultra-premium oranges. However, by 2004, the number of acres under cultivation in the Inland Empire had fallen to 3500 for the first time since 1879. “Globalization had ruined the local industry,” Knight explain, “I was standing in a supermarket in the heart of the historic breadbasket of the fresh-pack orange industry, and I couldn’t find one local orange.”
Knight realized that something had to be done to slow the tide of attrition and to preserve not only the orange orchards of the Inland Empire, but also the flavor of its oranges. As a solution to these problems, Knight formed the Inland Orange Conservancy (IOC), a non-profit foundation whose objectives were threefold; to preserve the citrus groves of the Inland Empire, to educate people of the Inland Empire about its citrus heritage, and to glean oranges that would otherwise remain unharvested in order to feed the poor. Farmers who joined the IOC would receive five times more for their crop than they would by selling to other local packers, while consumers who joined the IOC would receive a weekly share of the orange crop for the duration of the season.
The first few months of business development were frenetic. Knight was overwhelmed by both grower interest and consumer support. The one major hurdle that remained for the IOC was how to distribute the shares to its members. Essentially, Knight would need to find local businesses willing to provide the IOC with space where its customers could pick up their shares. This was a tall order. “I was in dire need of a successful example of how this distribution thing was going to work,” Knight explains, “everybody wanted to know what was in it for them. Unfortunately, as a non-profit foundation, we did not have much money to pay for distribution.”
Fortunately for Knight and the IOC, he scheduled a meeting with Brett Martin, General Manager of Bon Appétit at the University of Redlands. Knight’s dealings with other potential distribution sites had prepared him for the worst. “I was convinced that I had a hard sell to make,” Knight states, “but Brett was immediately supportive of the idea and asked what he could do to help us.” Martin’s commitment to the IOC would be fundamental to its development. First and foremost, he would buy IOC oranges for use in Bon Appétit’s kitchen. Next, he would promote the IOC wherever possible and allow it to use Bon Appétit’s facility as a distribution point. Finally, Bon Appétit personnel would be available to juice IOC members’ shares. He would also provide both the labor and the juice containers for free. “We were committed to doing whatever it took to make it happen for the IOC, “ Martin explains “this is what Bon Appétit is all about.”
The results of the collaboration between IOC and Bon Appétit have been impressive. Bon Appétit now facilitates over 10% of the IOC’s distribution. In addition to this, the Bon Appétit model has allowed Knight to attain essential distribution agreements with scores of other local businesses. In short, a great deal of the IOC’s success has been attributable to its association with Bon Appétit.
The IOC’s early success enabled it to start the “Thanks A Ton” program, where oranges that would otherwise be left to fall on the ground are harvested and provided to local food banks. The future looks incredibly bright for both the IOC and “Thanks A Ton”. In 2005, the IOC’s 1200 member families consumed 167 tons of oranges harvested by its 24 member-producers. It also donated another 49 tons of oranges through “Thanks a Ton.” “Next year,” Knight states, “our members will consume 350 tons of oranges and we will donate another 100 tons. We are making a major difference in the Inland Empire not only for orange growers and consumers, but also for the needy. We would never would have made it to this point without Bon Appétit’s assistance.”
Brett Martin is as pleased as Bob Knight by the success of the IOC. “Many businesses only work from the perspective of what is in their financial best interest,” Martin Explains. “At Bon Appétit, we don’t have to think that way. In terms of the IOC, the cost of juicing the oranges and providing container is nothing compared to the positive effect that we are having on both local growers and the local community at large.”
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